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UPWARDLY METEORICALLY
MOBILE! The Peak Centre is delighted
to be giving financial support to our own
home grown Edale climbing prodigies, Katy
and Peter Whittaker (Even their mum, Jill is doing very well as a "Veteran"). Visit the British Climbing Team web site for all the latest results and information about competition climbing! |
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Click here for a useful glossary of climbing terms!
Katy
writes I've been scrambling
and climbing almost as long as I can remember.
My mum and brother Peter are really keen
too, so we've climbed all over in all sorts
of places. Of course I've climbed loads
in the Peak District because I live there
but I've been to Wales, Scotland, Dorset,
Fontainebleau in France (see the photo)
and the Dolomites. I've also climbed lots
on indoor walls, especially in Sheffield
- the competitions all happen on indoor
walls. |
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Peter
writes I have
climbed and scrambled all my life. At an early age
I began climbing all round Britain in the Lake District,
Peak District, Wales and Skye in Scotland. When
I was a bit older I managed to go to Fontainbleu
in France and the Dolomites in Italy. This was good
because I got to climb on all different types of
rocks in lots of different places. |
To start climbing
outside first in lots of different places was good
because now I do all sorts of different climbing,
like traditional (outside placing gear), sport climbing
(outside clipping bolts) and inside on the wall.
This is better because it gives a different variety
of climbs.
When I was nine, I started getting
more into climbing and then when I was twelve I
was the youngest boy to be picked for the Junior
British Climbing Team. It was great to be picked
and made all my training seem worthwhile. |
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Climbing is really
good fun for everyone, because there are lots of
different areas of it so you can pick the one you
like the best. It is also very different to any
other sports or activities you might have done.
If you do come to the Peak Centre you could try
their climbing wall or even go out on one of the
local crags. Both are great fun and will give you
a idea of why I like climbing so much.
See you at the top! |
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Click to view Katy and Peter's Gallery
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Why
don't you take a look at KATY'S DIARY and PETER'S DIARY to see what they have been up to!!!
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Katy's
Diary At the beginning of the year in February half term we went to Spain to climb near Benidorm in an area called Costa Blanca. This is a popular area for sports climbing and we had 6 days of sunshine. We visited a variety of crags including Toix, Gandia, Altea, Sella, Murla and Alcalca and ticked a number of really nice routes. The rock out there is limestone so lots of edges and crimps which suits my type of climbing. Gandia was the steepest crag we visited when we were there, and was like a wave of rock on the edge of a hillside with a variety of angles. I redpointed a 7b+ here first go, it was just off vertical and a really nice sustained crimpy route.
Then in the Summer we had a week in Dijon, central France and Fontainebleau, near Paris. In Dijon we visited the crags Remigny, Bouilland and Fixin. Remigny was a really good crag, containing a slabby area with easier routes on and then a steeper area, which was good for training. The week we were in Dijon because it was mid-summer was boiling it was about 30+ degrees, which is very hot and greasy for climbing in, so we had to find shady crags. Font was much more suitable weather compared with the heat we had in Dijon, we had one day of rain, and the rest of the time it was warm. We climbed at Le Cul du Chien, Bas Cuvier, Trois Pignons, Apremont and a new area, which I had not visited before called Canche aux Merciers, this was a big area and had a large choice of problems which I enjoyed, it was also the last day so a good end to the trip. It was nice to train and chill out before the World Youth Championships at the end of August.
The World Youth Championships in Austria at the end of August, this was a 3 day competition, 2 days of qualifiers and a day of semi-finals and finals. The wall was the steepest I have ever climbed on in a competition, it consisted of a variety of steep featured walls and a main horizontal roof in the centre. Unfortunately I had a very bad competition, and didn’t as well I would of liked and finished in 40th.
I then had a few months of no climbing trips or competitions, which gave me some time to focus on my training, and at the beginning of December I had British Team Trials. First was the Junior leading trials which I finished in 3rd and kept my place on the team. The weekend after was the senior bouldering trials, in which I qualified for finals in joint 1st and finished 2nd overall. I was also selected for not only the team from this competition, but to enter The European Championships in March at the Birmingham Outdoors Shows at the NEC.
Katy
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Peter's
Diary
2006
Spain
The first trip I had this year was a trip to Spain in February. I went to Costa Blanca and got to crags such as Sella and Gandia, which was great. In Spain I did two 7b+’s (‘Enya’ at Gandia and ‘Kina Borregada’ at Sella) but mainly just got a lot of climbing mileage in.
France, Dijon.
The next trip I went on was to Dijon in France and again it was sport climbing. This was a great trip with loads of great three star routes. When I was out there I did two 7b+’s and onsighted two 7b’s. On the last day in Dijon we went to a crag called Fixin where I did a 30 metre 7c called ‘Pianissimo’ on first redpoint. After climbing at Dijon for a week, I had a trip back up France to Fontainbleau. Although I’m not as strong at bouldering, Font is always a great place to go so I just stuck to some of the classics such as the ‘Cull de Chien roof.’ For the first time this year I could easily reach the pocket on the roof and did it. Also on the last day at Font I did a 7a+.

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Portland
A few weeks after France I managed to get down to Portland for three days of climbing to do some more sport routes. I really like Portland and it my type of climbing, so I had a great week and the weather was good. In Portland I wanted to try and get a lot of 7a/7a+ mileage but also I wanted to do a few harder things. I did four 7a+’s including the classic routes ‘England’s Dreaming’ at Blacknor North and ‘Pump Hitler’ at Battleship Edge. I also did a couple of 7a’s, which were both good routes. As I wanted to do something a little bit harder as well, on the second day I did ‘Keyboard wall’, 7c on my second redpoint, and then on the third day I onsighted ‘Cocteau Phenomena,’ 7b+. It was a great long route up a huge face then out onto a great arete to finish.
I have got a 8a at the cuttings lined up for next I am able to get down there, so I hope to do that when possible. |
France, Orpierre.
I have just been to France with the British team, again sport climbing, it was a great week, I didn’t get as much done as I would have liked but it was a good chance to try different things. I started working an 8a on the third day there but I wasn’t able to link all the moves together on the redpoint so I was a bit disappointed. We managed as a team to get out to Ceouse. It was such an awesome crag and I had a really exciting day and just tried to get as many routes in as possible, seen as though we were only going there once. On the last day a looked at another 7c and tried flashing it but fell off one clip from the top, but then did it as my last route of the trip on third redpoint.
Trad climbing
I haven’t been out trad climbing loads this summer but when I have been out I have definitely been on a lot of routes VS and HVS. I did do a few harder things when I was out including ‘Flying Buttress’ E1 5b. When I went to the Roaches I top roped ‘Obsession Fatale’ E7 6b and did it second go. I didn’t lead it in the end because it was more of a solo. A bit later on in the year I did some more routes at Stanage, including ‘Incursion Direct,’ E1 6a and ‘Yosemite wall,’ E2 5b. I managed to also get out to Froggart, which was a good day out and I did ‘Brightside’ E2 5c, ‘3 pebble slab’ E1 5a and ‘4 pebble slab’ E3 5c. After I led 4 pebble slab I did it with feet only, no hands!
As well as doing trad on the grit I got out to Stoney Middleton to do some on the limestone and onsighted Dead Banana Crack E1 5c and Bitter Fingers E4 6a.
Comps
Because the BICCs haven’t been on this year I haven’t really done any this year, but because they haven’t been on I was able to train for the EYC (European Youth Cup) in Slovenia. It was only my second European, and I came 29th. It wasn’t really how I had hoped to do, but I hope to do better in some next year. A week after the Europeans I had the British Team trials in Leeds I went to these and then a week later a received a letter telling me that I had kept my place on the climbing team. I hope to carry on training with them throughout this year.
Bouldering
I haven’t done much bouldering this year but I have been up to Stanage Plantation a few times, I did the green traverse. |
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The Peak Centre, Edale, Hope Valley S33 7ZA
phone: 01433 670254. Registered Charity No. 520457
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